Helsinki’s calm and colour shaped AW26. Discover how designer Virginia Martin translated her travels to this Nordic city into the textures, tones and moments behind the collection.
Q: What brought you to Helsinki this time?
VM: It was actually a pretty spontaneous trip. I caught an overnight boat from Estonia and spent a few days travelling around Scandinavia with two friends. I also met up with a Finnish friend I hadn’t seen in years, which was really special. We explored the harbour area, which was beautiful, especially the fish market with all its fresh produce. There was a sauna experience that I’ll never forget, jumping into the freezing ocean and then warming up again in the hot sauna. Afterwards we had hot chocolate with mint liqueur, which felt like the perfect way to warm up.
Even though it was a short visit, I loved walking around, just strolling and taking in the architecture, popping into an art gallery, participating in a life drawing class, and staying in this mini castle-like place right in the middle of the city. There was also this swimming spot on the water that felt so refreshing. Everything combined, the water, the light, the city streets, gave me a really clear sense of the northern calm that inspired AW26.
Q: How did the colour palette develop?
VM: I looked to Helsinki for its quiet strength and the way its colours shift through the seasons. The palette comes from the surrounding landscape of woods, earth and sea, then layered with warmer tones to add depth and contrast. Stripes and checks felt like a natural reference to Nordic heritage, and we also created a print, designed in the Fitzroy studio, that is inspired by a local flower market.
Q: Can you talk about what fabrics you chose and why?
VM: When choosing our W26 materials, inspiration drew from how people dress in Helsinki and the need to balance warmth with comfort. Working with heavier and lighter wools built structure and insulation, then we softened them with natural fibres and layered blends so the pieces felt wearable and adaptable. Texture was important too, mixing soft, crinkled and cleaner finishes to give the collection depth without overcomplicating it.
Q: How did you explore silhouettes this season?
VM: I wanted variety but nothing forced. Dresses flow from fitted to flared while layering gives options so you can mix, match and adjust depending on the weather, occasion, or your mood. Even the structured pieces have a bit of softness, so everything feels approachable.
Q: Tell us about the footwear and how does it tie in?
VM: We wanted shoes that are practical but still clean and considered. There are T-bar heels, penny loafers, ankle boots, chunky brogues and hiker shoes. Details like waxed or oiled leather, speckled laces and polished finishes give a nod to the city streets, sometimes windy, sometimes sheltered, but everything is wearable.
Q: How do you balance keeping the labels foundations and values with new inspirations?
VM: It’s about designing things people can live in, whatever their day looks like. Everything is made with long lasting fabrics and thoughtful construction. Even though Helsinki is the inspiration, the pieces are still versatile, approachable and wearable for everyday life.
Q: Do you have a favourite piece this season?
VM: Definitely the Havu Vertical Striped Cardigan. I love the vertical stripes and the button-front design, it’s simple but perfect for layering, and it’s made from a soft extra-fine Merino and cashmere blend, so it’s warm without feeling heavy.
Q: What do you hope this collection embodies?
VM: It’s about slowing down, noticing the small details and dressing in a way that’s practical but still thoughtful. Calm, simple and quietly strong.
Imagery courtesy of Virginia’s personal travel archive.